6 Things To Remember When Taking Care of Dark Skin
"'Black don’t crack' is a statement I’ve lived by my whole life as a woman of colour", says Jessica Cruel, writing in SELF magazine. "For years, I believed my dark skin would guard me against ageing. If you look at the older African-American women in my family or even celebrities like Gabrielle Union and Angela Bassett, it seems to hold true. But the older I get, the wiser I am about skincare"
But while her melanin surplus might help stave off the wrinkles, it doesn’t guard against skin cancer or hyperpigmentation. And people with darker skin tones have specific issues to look out for. At Foster with Bucks, we know that skin care is really important for the children in care and adults with dark skin alike, so we did our research into some of these issues and devised this list of six things to remember when caring for darker skin.
Use sunscreen every day.
We're sticklers when it comes to sunscreen. Sunscreen has always been a beach essential, but did you know that it can also help slow skin ageing? There is some evidence to suggest that applying it every day to darker skin tones could be a really good thing to consider.
“I explain to my patients of all ethnicities that we can all get photodamage. We simply show it differently on our skin,” says dermatologist Amy McMichael, M.D. “Those with darker skin tend to show photodamage with hyperpigmentation that worsens over time on the cheeks and lower face. An uneven complexion is the outcome of sun exposure in darker patients.”
The extra melanin does still have its advantages. “Darker skin individuals have more melanin content and are less prone to sunburn and UV damage over time,” says dermatologist Seemal Desai, M.D., president of the Skin of Color Society. “However it’s still important to wear sunscreen because skin cancer can still happen.”
Knowing you should wear sunscreen and actually doing it are two different things, however. It’s hard to find a moisturiser with SPF 30+ that blends with darker skin. Anything that’s chalky or pasty can make sunscreen a pain to wear.
Start an antiaging regimen early and use it often.
Because of melanin’s ability to defend against UV damage and sunburn, it also protects darker skin tones against the signs of ageing like wrinkles, brown spots, and visible blood vessels. So in most cases, dark skin shows wrinkles and age spots a lot later in life. African-American skin also tends to have more oil, which protects against dryness and wrinkling. "African-American skin tends to have more sebum or oil content; some of that contains natural moisturizing factor so all of that can play a role in the look and aesthetics of the skin because it’s less likely to be dry,” says Desai.
Treat skin irritation ASAP.
If your mum or dad ever slapped your hand away if they saw you picking at my pimples or spots, you'll have heard them tell you that you could cause a scar. And darker skin is much more prone to scarring and hyperpigmentation than white skin. Many dermatologists recommend swift and stringent treatment courses for acne, rashes, and eczema on brown skin tones. “Treating things like acne and other common skin conditions in darker skin type individuals, I tend to treat a little more aggressively because if you don’t you’re likely to end up leaving behind post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says Desai. Once you have the underlying inflammation under control you can start to address any darkness or scarring that’s left behind.
Pick products that help with hyperpigmentation.
Hyperpigmentation, or the darkening of the skin in a certain area, can be left over as a result of inflammation after a bout of acne or an eczema flare-up. Melasma, a skin condition marked by areas of hyperpigmentation, is more common in darker-skinned people, and often occurs post-pregnancy, following sun exposure, or after taking oral contraceptives. While sunscreen - and not picking! - can help prevent hyperpigmentation, if it does appear, there are topical products you can use to lighten darkened areas.
One of the gold standards in lightening agents is hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is a prescription lightening ingredient that helps to block the enzyme that makes melanin.
World-renowned dermatologist, Dr McMichael uses hydroquinone for her patients but also recommends physician-strength products that include brightening ingredients like azelaic acid, liquorice, glycolic acid, and kojic acid. “I also remind my patients about sunscreen, because even the most even skin tone can develop hyperpigmentation after 5-10 minutes in the sun,” she says. Sun exposure can also darken any hyperpigmentation that is already visible.
Laser treatments aren't always OK for dark skin.
While fair skinned patients can handle laser treatments to get rid of brown spots or wrinkles, darker skin must be cautious using these types of machines. When you do things like laser, you’re applying heat that damages the melanin layer and can inflame the skin, further exacerbating a pigmentation issue and leaving behind that post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This is also something to keep in mind when you consider laser hair removal treatments. These lasers target the melanin in the hair. When you have dark hair and a dark complexion, it's harder for the lasers to distinguish between them, which can lead to burns or scars. However, there are some machines, like the Nd:Yag, that is better for darker skin tones. You always want to see a certified practitioner who has worked on brown skin before.
And finally, find a dermatologist who understands dark skin.
When seeking advice, remember that not all dermatologists are equally familiar with the particularities and intricacies of darker skin. It’s important that darker skin type patients seek out a dermatologist who is an expert in skin of colour or who has worked in treating pigmentary disorders.
If you found this article insightful and are celebrating Black History Month, why not get in touch with us and tell us what you're doing? We're available at [email protected].